Vacation For Life: Sweden

48 Hours of Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gothenburg Tram Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gothenburg (or Göteborg in Swedish) is the second-largest city in Sweden, home to Volvo, a busy port town by the sea, and a foodie destination. Gothenburg is located on the west coast of Sweden, southwest of Stockholm. Gothenburg’s points of interest are mostly centered in the city center, but travel by tram and bus outside the city center and you will find some pretty unusual off-the-beaten-path attractions too. We’ve put together the following guide of 48 hours of things to do in Gothenburg to get the best out of this Swedish city in a short period of time.

Walk Gothenburg’s Main Boulevard

Avenyn at Night Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gothenburg’s main boulevard is Avenyn, though its formal name is Kungsportsavenyn. Avenyn spans multiple blocks from Götaplatsen, Gothenburg’s public square, to Market Hall (Saluhallen). Avenyn is filled with shops, cafes, restaurants and nightclubs. We stayed in the middle of the action at Hotel Bellora, which has a terrace where you can view Avenyn from above. (To learn more about Hotel Bellora, read our article about five awesome hotels in Sweden.)

Get an Overview of Gothenburg on a Sightseeing Bus

Sightseeing Bus Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

If you have a short time in Gothenburg, a great way to get a quick overview of the city is to board the Strömma bus on the main boulevard Avenyn outside Stora Teatern (free with the Gothenburg City Card). Earphones are provided and the recorded commentary is available in English, Swedish, Norwegian, Danish, German, French, and Spanish. During the low season, when we visited, the tour is every Saturday at noon and takes 50 minutes with no stops. During the high season the tour becomes hop-on-hop-off with a total of seven stops.

See Sweden’s Only Original Viking Vessel at the Gothenburg City Museum

Gothenburg City Museum Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

The story of Gothenburg from ancient times to present day is told at the Gothenburg City Museum (Göteborgs Stadsmuseum). The museum’s collections range from photographs to furniture to clothing and more. Its claim to fame is having the only Viking ship on display in Sweden. The Äskekärr ship is 16 meters long and was found 30 kilometers from Gothenburg in the 1930s. It was used as a trading vessel around 900 AD. Admission to the Gothenburg City Museum is free with the Gothenburg City Card.

Marvel at Art at Gothenburg Museum of Art

Poseido Public Square Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Since our time was short in Gothenburg, we almost skipped the Gothenburg Museum of Art (Göteborgs Konstmuseum), but after a few conversations it became apparent that just wouldn’t be acceptable. The Gothenburg Museum of Art contains one of northern Europe’s finest art collections from the 15th century to present. While there are works by famous artists like Rembrandt and Monet, the museum’s focus is Nordic art. While many European museums have art collections that started as royal collections, Gothenburg’s art museum was created with donations from the people of Gothenburg. Entrance to the museum is free with the Gothenburg City Card.

Gothenburg Museum of Art Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

The Gothenburg Museum of Art is along Götaplatsen, Gothenburg’s public square, which is dominated by a statue of the sea god Poseidon who stands holding a shell and a fish while overlooking Avenyn. Also along the square are the Gothenburg Concert Hall and Gothenburg City Theatre.

Visit a Mill Town Surrounding Rapids and Waterfalls

Molndals Kvarnby Rapids Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Here’s where this guide to Gothenburg goes a little off-the-beaten-path, and why the internet, with photos and travel blogs, is such a wonderful thing for travel research. Mölndals Kvarnby barely gets a mention in our guidebook, but for us it was one of our favorite things to do in Gothenburg. The only reason we found Mölndals Kvarnby was because I did some internet research to see if there was anything else to do near Gunnebo Slott (described below) and found this beautiful town built on top of a waterfall.

Molndals Kvarnby Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Mölndals Kvarnby is a neighborhood of Mölndal in the southern outskirts of Gothenburg. The buildings are built along and on top of fast moving rapids. The strength of these rapids was harnessed to power mills hundreds of years ago. These mills were used to create everything from textiles to paper to oil.

City Museum of Molndal Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

At the top of the neighborhood is the City Museum of Mölndal (Mölndals Stadsmuseum) which displays everyday items from the 20th century. Enjoy lunch at the museum and grab a free map of the neighborhood (only available in Swedish during our visit).

Industrial Museum Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Be sure to stop at the Industrial Museum (Industrimuséet) which houses an eclectic collection of industrial machines as well a replica of an old residence.

Tour a House Museum and Learn a Timeless Tragic Story

Gunnebo House and Gardens Exterior Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gunnebo House and Gardens (Gunnebo Slott) is an 18th century estate in Mölndal (reachable from Gothenburg’s city center via tram and then bus). In 1778, John Hall, a merchant, hired the renowned Gothenburg architect Carl Wilhelm Carlberg to build him a summer estate south of the city. Carlberg not only designed the building, but also the furnishings. Each room had its own unique style all the way down to the chairs. Carlberg was inspired by Italian design and the estate is a great example of neo-classical architecture.

Gunnebo House and Gardens Interior Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

John Hall died in 1802 and his son, John Hall Junior, inherited the estate and his father’s business. John Hall Junior was an artist and not a businessman. He was unable to maintain the business and went bankrupt in 1807. Gunnebo fell into disrepair and John Hall Junior lived in poverty until he died homeless on the streets of Stockholm. The house was auctioned off in 1832 and changed hands many times. The city of Mölndal was able to purchase the estate in 1948 and restored it to its former glory based on architectural drawings. Some of the original furnishings have been reclaimed while others have been recreated.

Today Gunnebo House and Gardens can be visited on a guided tour which is free with the Gothenburg City Card. According to the website, tours are given in Swedish while non-Swedish speakers can follow along using provided guidebooks in English, German, French, Spanish, and Russian. However, during our visit the guide provided the tour to our mixed group of Americans, Frenchmen, and Swedes in English.

Swim in Seafood at the Church of Fish

Fishermen Statue Feskekorka Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gothenburg is a culinary city by the sea. The cold waters of the North Sea cause the fish and shellfish to grow slower and also develop fuller flavors. To fully enjoy the fruits of Sweden’s sea, visit Feskekôrka, which translates to fish church. Feskekôrka is an indoor fish and shellfish market housed in a market hall that was built in 1874 in the shape of a church. The seafood in this market is worthy of worship.

Restaurang Kajutan Seafood Platter Feskekorka Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

While locals come here to buy fish for home, travelers need not despair. The market has a couple of restaurants at which travelers can dine on the freshest Swedish seafood. We dined at Restaurang Kajutan for lunch and ate a glorious sampler platter with two kinds of herring (including one made with lingonberries which I recommend for the non-herring lover), oysters, prawns, shrimp, crab, lobster, salmon, and more.

Dine at a Michelin-Starred Restaurant

Koka Michelin Restaurant Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Seafood isn’t the only culinary delight to be found in the foodie city of Gothenburg. Gothenburg chefs work with local, organic, seasonal ingredients like berries, mushrooms, and game in gourmet restaurants around the city. Gothenburg has six Michelin-starred restaurants, two of which were added in 2015. We dined at Gothenburg’s newest Michelin-starred restaurants, SK Mat & Människor and Koka. The others are Thörnströms Kök, 28+, Bhoga, and Sjömagasinet.

Gothenburg Rental Bikes Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Gothenburg Travel Tip: To get the most out of Gothenburg on a budget, grab a Gothenburg City Card at the airport, from a tourism office, or order online to receive free entrance into attractions, free travel on public transportation, and free parking. Almost all of the things to do in Gothenburg listed above are covered by the card. The Gothenburg City Card even covers things like rental bikes, available at over 50 stations around the city, and a guided boat ride through Gothenburg’s archipelago. Gothenburg City Cards are offered in 24-, 48-, and 72-hour durations.

Gothenburg Things to Do in Gothenburg Sweden

Thank you to go:teborg&co and Hotel Bellora for hosting our time in Gothenburg and making this post possible. As always, all opinions are my own.

Travel the World: Things to do in Gothenburg Sweden when you have 48 hours.

Winter Travel Packing List: What to Pack for Outdoor Activities

Jukkasjärvi Church Winter Travel Packing List

The thing about travel is it’s constantly taking you out of your comfort zone. Which is awesome. But it also means that sometimes you have no idea how to best prepare for a situation. For us, that moment came when we were preparing for our trip to Swedish Lapland. We live in San Diego, home of some of the most beautiful and temperate weather in the United States. What did we know about winter travel to the Arctic Circle? Not much. We were not only planning travel to freezing temperatures, but we were also planning to spend much of our time outside enjoying winter outdoor activities. What to wear? It was important to get it right so we weren’t miserable. We put together a winter travel packing list that served us well for enjoying our winter outdoor activities.

Icelandic Horseback Riding Winter Travel Packing List

The year before we went to Sweden, we took our first winter trip to Madison, Wisconsin. Because of that trip, we had a little bit of knowledge about packing for winter travel, so some of our winter travel packing list was the same. But traveling above the Arctic Circle to experience Swedish Lapland’s winter outdoor activities is a little more extreme.

The key to packing for winter travel is to pack lots of layers and as little cotton as possible. Layers are important because they provide insulation and ventilation and allow you to quickly adjust to changes in temperature and activity level by adding or removing layers. Avoiding cotton is important because cotton retains moisture and will create a chilling effect.

Reindeer Sledding Winter Travel Packing List

The first layer is the base layer, which goes against your skin. The base layer manages moisture by moving perspiration away from your body to the outdoor layers, allowing it to evaporate. Do not use cotton thermals for your base layer. Your base layer should be made out of wool or synthetic fabrics like polyester. We wore Under Armour, which is made of synthetic fabric, and a popular wool brand is SmartWool.

The middle layer provides insulation by retaining heat and trapping warm air close to your body. The middle layer should be made with wool, down, or fleece. For our tops we chose fleece, which is lightweight, breathable, and can still insulate when wet. Fleece comes in different weights depending on the weather and your needs.

For our bottoms, jeans weren’t going to cut it. I actually wore jeans one day in Kiruna, thinking it would be okay since we were just walking around and would be inside most of the time. That was a mistake and my legs were cold and slightly numb. The best purchase we made for our winter travel was of Craghoppers' lined winter pants, made with polyester and cotton and lined with fleece.

The shell or outer layer protects you from the elements like wind, rain, and snow. A good down jacket is the perfect outer layer for when you’re walking around outside in the cold and snow. Down is lightweight and can pack very small when using space saver vacuum seal bags. It also traps in warmth.

For winter outdoor activities like snowmobiling and dog sledding you’ll need more. The best item of winter clothing for winter outdoor activities is a full-body snowsuit. Luckily this isn’t something we had to pack. During our stay at the ICEHOTEL we were provided with a snowsuit which we were able to use for our entire stay. Also, every tour company provided snowsuits for guest use.

It’s also important to keep your head, hands and feet warm. Wool socks are essential, and if one pair is good, two pairs are better. We suggest wearing thin socks with very little cotton underneath your wool socks, which help wick away moisture and protect from the wool itch. Again, make sure not to wear mostly cotton socks. My favorite winter boots are my lined Ugg boots, but another good option is Sorel boots. The ICEHOTEL and tour operators provided boots, but I preferred using my own. Make sure your boots are big enough to fit your extra thick socks.

Protect your hands with really good gloves or mittens. It’s important for your gloves to be waterproof as you will most likely be touching snow multiple times. It is suggested to wear mittens because the insulation works better when all your fingers are together in the same opening. However, I really couldn’t get the hang of wearing mittens so I stuck with my gloves. Again, the ICEHOTEL and our tour operators provided leather mittens.

To keep your head warm, pack a good knit hat. My Under Armour hat worked spectacularly because it had an inner layer which trapped heat in. Also pack a wool scarf to cover your face, especially when joining in fast moving outdoor winter activities. You may even want to invest in a balaclava, especially for snowmobiling.

If you use this winter travel packing list for your next outdoor winter adventure, you’ll have a successful winter trip and be warm and toasty while outside playing in freezing temperatures.

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links it costs you nothing extra and we earn a small commission which goes towards our travels and helps us bring you more stories. Thank you!

Travel the World: Winter travel packing list for a vacation filled with winter outdoor activities.

Kiruna: The Sinking Mine Town of Sweden's Lapland

Kiruna Church and bell tower.

Kiruna is sinking, literally. Sweden’s northernmost town located in Swedish Lapland, a remote area with a harsh climate within the Arctic Circle, came to be because of the rich iron ore being mined nearby. The same mine that brought the people and the town and the money is what is now causing the town to sink.

The situation isn’t a complete disaster, and it isn’t a surprise either. When LKAB, Kiruna’s mining company, was founded in 1890, the founder ran the calculations and knew that if the mine continued, the town would have to be moved in 125 years. That time has come and Kiruna needs to move.

You may be wondering why a mining town that is slowly sinking is a sought after tourist destination. Kiruna is a popular place to visit for people who are traveling to Swedish Lapland to enjoy outdoor winter activities like snowmobiling, dogsledding, and seeing the Northern Lights.

Kiruna City Hall.

While Kiruna is oftentimes used as a home-base for enjoying outdoor activities, the town itself has something to offer visitors to this remote part of the world. The main attraction is the mine, which travelers can visit on a guided tour. There is also Kiruna Church, a wooden church voted the most beautiful public building in Sweden, and Kiruna’s city hall, with its unusual clock tower. After the city’s big move, some of Kiruna’s attractions will still be in the same place, some will be moved, and some will no longer exist.

Kiruna's iron mine.

A visit to Kiruna should include a tour of the mine. After all, the town wouldn’t even be there if it weren’t for the mine. This isn’t your gold rush era old-timey kind of mine like we visited on Arizona’s Apache Trail. This is a modern, working, underground city kind of mine.

Entrance to Kiruna's iron mine.

The LKAB mine is the largest underground iron ore mine in the world. It can only be visited on a guided tour which is set up through the Kiruna Lapland tourism board. (For tour times and to make a reservation, visit Kiruna Lapland’s website.) A bus picks everyone up from the Tourist Office in Kiruna and drives them to the nearby mine. Once the bus enters the cave-like entrance, the bus begins winding its way down, down, down into the bowels of the earth.

Schematic of the mine's tunnels.

The roads inside the mine are called slopeways. There are 400 kilometers of slopeways within Kiruna’s mine. The levels of the mine are named after their depth. For instance, Level 540 is 540 meters down and is one of the main levels from 30 years ago. A restaurant for mine workers is 1,365 meters underground, and the deepest point of the mine is 1,545 meters.

Equipment used in Kiruna's iron mine. The tires are filled with water.

After donning hardhats, the tour starts deep in the mine with a short film about the mine and the company. The tour then walks through the level where mining equipment can be seen and the mining process is explained. You can even take home a baggie of iron ore pellets, which is the form in which most of the iron from the mine is distributed. One day of mining produces enough iron to build six Eiffel Towers.

In case you’re wondering how an entire town can afford to move, LKAB will pay for the move. LKAB is one of the most profitable companies in Sweden.

Kiruna Church.

There are a few things to do and see within the town center of Kiruna as well. One of the top things to see in Kiruna is Kiruna Church. Kiruna Church is not your standard church. It is a wooden church built in the shape of a Sami tent, or goahti. Kiruna Church was designed by Gustav Wickman and was built between 1909 and 1912. When the church was completed in 1912, it was donated to the people of Kiruna by LKAB mining company. In 2001, the church was voted Sweden’s most beautiful building.

Interior of Kiruna Church.

Kiruna Church is in the center of town. It is one of the buildings that will be saved and will actually be moved to a safer spot.

Interior of Kiruna's City Hall.

Another must see in Kiruna is Kiruna’s City Hall. This is a spacious building topped with a very unusual clock. Kiruna’s current City Hall will not survive the town’s move. Within City Hall visitors can view plans for Kiruna’s new city center, including the new city hall. The clock tower of City Hall will be saved and will be a highlight of the new town center.

Artist rendering of new city hall and city center.

While moving an entire town is an incredibly difficult and expensive endeavor, the upside is that Kiruna will be a more beautiful town with a bustling city center with shops, hotels, homes, and public spaces. Once the move has been completed, which could take 20 years, a park will be created where the old town once stood.

Camp Ripan.

If you’re planning on staying in Kiruna, we suggest Camp Ripan, a lovely hotel on the outskirts of town, but within easy walking distance, even in the winter. To learn more about Camp Ripan, its restaurant, its spa, and its Northern Lights viewability, read our article about five awesome hotels in Sweden.

Thank you to Kiruna Lapland and Camp Ripan for hosting our time in Kiruna and making this post possible. As always, all opinions are my own.

Travel the World: Things to do in Kiruna, Sweden, a mining town in Swedish Lapland above the Arctic Circle.

Exciting Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden’s Lapland

Taking a Break Dog Sledding Outdoor Winter Activities Sweden's Lapland

We traveled to Swedish Lapland in hopes of seeing and photographing the Northern Lights. But, since there was no guarantee we would see the Northern Lights, we decided to also plan some exciting outdoor winter activities so if our search for the Northern Lights was unsuccessful, we’d still have a great adventure trying some other once-in-a-lifetime experiences during our visit to northern Sweden. (Be sure to watch the video of all four of our winter outdoor activities at the end of this article.)

Moose Safari on Horseback

Blida the Icelandic Horse Ofelas Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

I keep seeing pictures of Icelandic horses all over the internet, probably because so many travel bloggers have been writing about Iceland lately. Icelandic horses are beautiful creatures and I’ve wanted to see them in person myself. I thought I would have to wait until we finally made it to Iceland, so I was surprised to learn there are some Icelandic horses in Sweden too.

Ofelas Farm Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

Ofelaš is a small outdoor adventure company specializing in Icelandic horseback adventures through Swedish Lapland a short distance west of Kiruna and Jukkasjärvi. Ofelaš has Icelandic horses which they imported from Iceland. The name of the company, Ofelaš, is a Sámi word meaning guide. Swedish Lapland is also known as Sápmi, the land of the Sámi people, and the Sámi culture is very important to many of the tour providers in Lapland, including Ofelaš.

Ofelas Moose Safari Path Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

Ofelaš offers a number of tour options. We chose the moose safari on horseback. We were picked up in the morning at the ICEHOTEL and driven to the Ofelaš farm. (We've written previously about what it's like to stay at Sweden’s ICEHOTEL.) We were walked out to meet the Icelandic horses and our guide Jenny picked the perfect horses for each of us. I was paired with Blida and Romeo was paired with Fengur.

Blida Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

We walked our horses into the stalls for a little bonding time. We were each given a brush so we could brush our horses thoroughly. Blida looked a little suspicious of me at first, possibly wondering what this Southern California girl was doing in the snow-covered land of northern Sweden, but she seemed to warm up to me during the brushing.

Swedish Moose Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

After the brushing session, we saddled up our horses and led them out to the yard. Jenny gave us a quick lesson before we headed out into the forest to hunt for moose.

Moose in the Path Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

The moose safari was beautiful and actually relaxing. The horses walked along the snowy trail through forest trees as we kept an eye out for moose. The ride was very quiet so we didn’t scare the moose away. I hoped to see one or two moose, so I was surprised by how many we actually saw.

Icelandic Horses Rolling in the Snow Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

After we finished our ride, we removed our horses’ saddles and bridles and watched as they rolled around in the snow.

Ofelas Lunch Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

We then headed inside for a lovely lunch of soup, reindeer meat, potatoes, vegetables and warm lingonberry juice. Warm lingonberry juice is a staple in Swedish Lapland during the winter and something we looked forward to every day.

Swedish Moose Safari Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

The tour takes about five hours from start to finish if starting from Kiruna, and six hours if starting from the ICEHOTEL. Ofelaš offers transfers and they also provide helmets, warm outdoor clothing, boots, and gloves. However, if you’re staying at the ICEHOTEL, I suggest just using the winter outdoor clothing provided by the hotel. Tours can be booked directly through Ofelaš or through the ICEHOTEL.

Snowmobiling

Snowmobiles Under Northern Lights Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

Neither Romeo nor I had ever been snowmobiling before, so we thought the perfect place to try snowmobiling for the first time was Swedish Lapland. But we did have an ulterior motive for our snowmobiling adventure. We wanted to see the Northern Lights!

We traveled to Sweden to see the Northern Lights. But we knew seeing the Northern Lights wasn’t guaranteed so we wanted to plan lots of fun outdoor activities in case we didn’t see them. Our snowmobiling tour was hopefully going to cover two activities in one, snowmobiling and photographing the Northern Lights.

Kiruna Guidetur offers a lot of different winter and summer tours. One of those is an aurora expedition which combines snowmobiling at night with hunting for the Northern Lights.

Snowmobiling Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

We were picked up again at the ICEHOTEL and driven to the snowmobile garage not very far away. We donned our helmets and goggles then received a lesson on riding snowmobiles. I decided to leave the driving up to Romeo and I would just be a passenger on the back.

Driving through snow-covered Lapland at night was a very different experience. It’s very quiet except for the sound of the engines. It was also surprisingly easy to see the trail ahead with just the light of our snowmobile headlamps.

Snowmobile Under the Northern Lights Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

We drove for quite a while before arriving at our destination in the Torne River valley, actually on top of the frozen river. We lucked out and not only had a fun ride but also saw one of the most spectacular Northern Lights shows ever.

For more Northern Lights pictures, see our article Norther Lights: How to Photograph Them, Where to See Them.

Dinner in Sami Cabin Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

After the Northern Lights finally decided to take a rest, we trudged up the hill to Kiruna Guidetur’s Sámi cabin for a warm meal of lingonberry juice and reindeer stew followed by a dessert.

After dinner, we got back on our snowmobiles and rode back to the garage, still feeling on top of the world because of the Northern Lights show we had just witnessed.

Snowmobiling with Kiruna Guidetur Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

The aurora expedition tour with dinner takes 4.5 hours though I think ours was a little longer because none of us wanted to leave, including our guide Finn. Hotel transfers are provided as well as helmets, winter overalls, gloves, and boots. Drivers need to have a driver’s license.

Reindeer Sledding

When I learned there was reindeer sledding available in Swedish Lapland, nothing would keep me from playing Santa Claus, not even the expensive price tag.

Lapland is the original home of the Scandinavian aboriginal people, the Sámi. The Sámi people were nomadic and relied on reindeer to provide transportation for both people and possessions. Joining a reindeer sledding tour with Nutti Sámi Siida provides visitors to Swedish Lapland the opportunity to learn more about these indigenous people.

Feeding Reindeer Moss Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

After being picked up yet again from the ICEHOTEL, we were taken to Nutti Sámi Siida’s changing room before heading to the reindeer camp, which is very close to the ICEHOTEL.

We entered the reindeer enclosure to meet the reindeer and feed them some reindeer moss. Then one of our guides lassoed the reindeer which would be pulling our sleds. Each person drives their own sled pulled by one reindeer. The sleds are made in the traditional style used by the Sámi people.

Reindeer Sledding Instructions Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

Our drive through the snow started out tame enough. The reindeer trotted slowly along the trail, pulling us along behind. At one point the lead reindeer didn’t want to go. My reindeer decided it didn’t want to wait and tried to go around. I didn’t have the brake on well enough, so when the sled was pulled off the trail into the soft snow there was nothing I could do but hang on or jump off. Jump off I did, face first into the snow. That’s when the camera got put away, after I cleared away the snow that had made its way inside the case.

Reindeer Sledding Trail Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

The reindeer decided they were ready to head off again and we had a very pleasant ride through the snow and trees.

We stopped on the frozen Torne River so everyone could have a rest, including the reindeer. It was after our rest that things got a little hairy.

After our rest we all boarded our sleds again. The lead reindeer took off, going rather fast. The rest of the reindeer followed suit. This wouldn’t have been too much of a problem, as we were riding along the wide open straightaway of the frozen river. The problem was the 90 degree turn into the forest ahead.

I’m going to do my best imitation of a race caller announcing a race because that really seems the most fitting way to tell this part of the story.

Romeo is in the lead, his reindeer running. Katherine’s reindeer just took off, going faster than she wants. The reindeer behind Katherine has decided it does not want to stay in formation. It’s taking off, quickly gaining on Katherine and passing on the left. It has now passed Katherine and is quickly gaining on Romeo. They are now running neck and neck. How Romeo is holding on to his phone videoing this thing is beyond me! Bad news, they’re approaching the turn. How are they both going to make this turn where the trail narrows to one sled wide? They’re still neck and neck. Whoa! The two sleds just knocked into each other! Somehow they’ve both remained upright! Romeo better watch out for those huge antlers. Those things look dangerous! This race is going to be a close call!

The passing of the reindeer spooked my reindeer and it started going even faster. I saw the turn coming up ahead and I just knew there was no way we were going to make the turn. Sure enough, as my reindeer rounded the bend, my sled skidded off the path into the soft snow and tipped over onto its side. The next few seconds felt as if they occurred in slow motion as I flew into the soft snow, turning my body mid-air so I could see the reindeer and sled fast approaching from behind and trying my best to make sure my body got out of the way. I actually made eye contact with the girl riding behind me. Thankfully the snow was soft and I wasn’t touched by the other sled. However, imagine Romeo’s horror when he saw my reindeer running through the forest dragging behind it an empty sled bouncing on its side.

Another girl got thrown from her sled at the next curve and the two of us trudged through the snow to meet the rest of the group, laughing at the ridiculousness of the whole thing and glad neither of us was hurt. We boarded our sleds again and this time had a slow and uneventful return to the camp.

When we got back to the camp the reindeer were released into the enclosure and we entered a traditional Sámi tent for lunch. Lunch was lingonberry juice, of course, and a really delicious reindeer taco, a pita type bread filled with sautéed reindeer meat and lingonberries. We sat around the fire and continued to laugh at our crazy adventure of the day.

Sami Tent Lunch Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

Let me be clear that our experience was very much not normal. Usually the reindeer sled excursions are slow and relaxed. It is a good reminder that when you join tours involving animals, you must remember those animals have a mind of their own.

The reindeer sled excursion takes about five hours. Nutti Sámi Siida provides hotel transfers and warm clothing including boots and gloves. They also offer shorter (and less expensive) 3.5 hour tours that include driving a reindeer sled around a short track rather than the trail ride through the forest. Tours can be booked through the company directly or through the ICEHOTEL.

Dog Sledding

So you may not be surprised to learn that I was a little nervous going into our dog sledding tour the day after our reindeer sledding adventure.

We got to the dog kennels and found three sleds and their teams ready to go. When we were introduced to our team we were surprised to see them all laying down in the snow practically napping. Romeo thought that was a sign they were going to go crazy once it was time to take off. That wasn’t exactly what happened.

The beginning of our dog sledding tour was a comedy of errors. Our dogs just did not want to go. We would be sledding and then one of them would decide it wanted to lay down and take a nap. The others would try to get around it, tangling up the lines. We were constantly stopping to try to straighten them out. To be honest, I was partially hoping we would just have to end the tour as I was a little nervous about being thrown off another sled.

We sat on the frozen river for quite a while waiting for someone to bring some replacement dogs. While Romeo stood on the brake, I went to the front of the pack to hold them in place, not that they really needed holding as it seemed like all they wanted to do was go to sleep.

Me and Hedwig Outdoor Winter Activities in Sweden's Lapland

During our wait, I fell in love with a dog named Hedwig. Hedwig was one of the lead dogs. She was smaller than the rest and when I sat at the front she immediately laid her head on my lap and fell asleep. I am a sucker for dogs and I fell for her hook, line, and sinker. I pet her, she licked me, we were a match made in heaven.

The crazy thing is it only took replacing one dog to get us going again. While sitting around on the snow might sound like an inconvenience, what made me really happy from the experience was that it was clear if these dogs didn’t want to run, they didn’t run. They only ran if they wanted to.

Once one of the dogs was replaced all of our pack were up and rearing to go. From then on we were flying along the river and through the forest. The experience was so much fun I got back my courage again and even took a turn at driving the sled in one of the easier parts.

Riding a dog sled is a lot of work! I was surprised by how athletic sledding is. You need to shift your weight, sometimes even shifting your feet and entire body weight from one side to the other. You need to brake a little when going downhill so the sled doesn’t run into the dogs, and on the uphill sections you need to get off and jog to help the dogs out.

Our guide Luc has been working with sled dogs for decades and was an excellent leader. He also made up for the delay by extending our tour longer than planned so we could enjoy the entire experience. We enjoyed a quick lunch of cream of mushroom soup (not the Campbell’s canned kind) before heading out again. Our dogs had a nice rest and a bite to eat and when we were ready to go again, we could see how much the dogs loved to run. They were barking and howling and jumping, ready to take off.

I am pleased to report there was never a worry of being thrown off the dog sled and we had the greatest time. The only sad part was having to say goodbye to Hedwig and the rest of our team.

Our tour was provided by Jukkasjärvi Vildmarks Turer, but we booked it through Kiruna Guidetur. We chose the Musher for a Day tour, a 4.5 hour tour which is the most authentic experience as two people drive a sled with six dogs. If you don’t feel comfortable driving your own sled, you can join the Lapland Experience tour, a 2.5 hour tour where the tour guide drives and up to four people sit on the sled. Similar to the other tours, winter coveralls, gloves, and boots are provided along with transfer service. Before we left a friend suggested bringing a scarf to wrap around our noses and mouths. She warned me sled dogs can relieve themselves while on the move, and the only thing blocking the flight path is your face. Luckily our dogs chose to stop before doing such things, but there was the occasional smell that wafted backwards which a scarf can help block.

Our four days in Sweden’s Lapland were a complete success if I do say so myself. We witnessed two spectacular Northern Lights shows and spent our days and one night experiencing exciting outdoor winter activities we had never done before. Even if we hadn’t seen the Northern Lights our trip to Swedish Lapland would have been an amazing experience.

Thank you to Ofelaš and Kiruna Guidetur for making this post possible. As always, all opinions are my own.

Vacation For Life

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